Injecting
Stains
How to treat carpeting
How to treat wood floors
How to treat furniture
How to treat concrete
How to treat leather
How to treat bedding and clothes
How to treat Oriental Rugs
INJECTING FOR URINE CONTAMINATION
What You Should KnowUrine penetrates deeply into absorbent materials. As it dries, the water evaporates leaving behind an Aggregate of organic and other components that soon crystallizes forming a multitude of "salts." In effect, the dried salts form a barrier to any liquid you may later try to introduce. Unless you are able to gain access to contaminated fabrics from both sides; the most positive, effective way to treat dried urine is by injecting directly into the contaminants with a high-quality bacterial/enzyme digester.
"Flooding" the area from the top is easier but is a poor alternative to injecting for the following reasons:
The salt "plug" resists penetration from the top and most of your bio-chemical will tend to seek the course of least resistance, soaking into areas previously devoid of urine. Unless there is adequate penetration into the plug, the effectiveness of your treatment will be diminished.
To treat by flooding wastes costly biological products unnecessarily, and spreads a dilution of urine into an ever wider area, contaminating that as well.
In carpeting, the bulk of urine is normally underneath and permanent staining is more likely to occur when over-wetting the area. More of the urochrome, a natural dye found in urine, can flush to the surface and deposit on your face yarns.
Hot urine, having soaked through the carpet backing, quickly saturates the pad, spreads in a widening circle and penetrates through to the hard floor beneath where, given enough volume, it spreads even farther. A mere 1/2 cup in volume, say, the hot urine deposited from a 40 Lb. dog, goes clear to the hard floor where It spreads into a circular area nearly a foot in diameter. Additional "accidents" in the same spot spreads the urine farther yet. The absorbency of the pad soaks up excess liquid depositing more to the carpet backside contaminating the secondary backing everywhere it touches.
Recurring urination in the same area can cause extreme problems, even with the smaller animals and particularly in the case of cats. Cats prefer "going" near walls or in corners (they feel less vulnerable during elimination). Whenever we find cat urine having spread a foot or better away from walls, we can assume that it has pushed through the tackless strips and penetrated under the wall. Unabated, this condition continues spreading, wicking the contaminants up inside the wail affecting everything in it.
We have had to remove the outer layer of a wall six feet up in order to gain access to the urine inside due to wicking action from the floor level. In another instance, not only had cat urine permeated the walls, the condition was discovered only when urine dripped into a common garage area beneath the structure.
These unfortunate conditions and hundreds more have been treated successfully using our products and specially developed techniques, and with permanent results. Treatment of carpeting is relatively easy with some effort and a little patience. Follow our instructions and remember; this first rule of deodorization: "Remove The Source Of Odor." Our digesters, coupled with these tested methods, do just that.
Unless you know the locations and the extent of contamination, it is unlikely you will be able to treat your odor problem effectively. Once located, and properly marked off, you are half way there.
The four basic tools used for urine detection are listed In the order of their effectiveness:
- Your nose (sniffing can pinpoint contaminants in an Instant)
- EUS (a sharp tipped, Electronic Urine Sensing device that squeals when encountering urine)
- UV light (ultraviolet, or black light, that fluoresces the minerals contained in urine)
- Your eyes (urine on carpeting is not always apparent in full-spectrum daylight)
A complete discussion of these tools, their relative advantages and their shortcomings, can be found in the Manual, "Professional Users Guide."
This process occurs continuously as urine crystals are digested. During evaporation moisture has to move to the air in order to vaporize, thereby, wicking some undigested urine to the surface, as well. While it does continue working for you, the dry air slows the enzymatic process. Leave your masking tape in place so that you do not get lost later, as you will need to retreat the face yarns several times over the course of a week or two so that all of the urine disappears uniformly. Once treated underneath, you will not have to retreat by injection. Initially, increased odors could occur; this condition should dissipate within five days.
When you are satisfied that the urine is gone, remove your masking tape markings. Under normal circumstances and unless the carpet is otherwise soiled or stained, further cleaning is rarely necessary.
You must use great care when handling a sharp needle! You can easily puncture your flesh! These needle are normally packed in sterile condition-of course, once used in stale urine decay, a severe infection could result. In the event you do jab yourself it is recommended you visit a doctor immediately and receive a tetanus shot! Disassemble when not in use. Store away from children.
STAINS
Pet Stains, Specifically Urine Affected FabricsWe are frequently asked about "stains." We know to many of us, those less familiar with professional terminology and theories of cleaning, that any variation of a fabric perceived, a "soiled spot," is commonly considered a stain. While soiling can more easily be removed, true staining implies a permanent condition due to a change in the structure of the dyes, a bleaching, or the addition of a dye.
We can guarantee that our unique cleaning products will remove the odor of urine, indeed, remove the source of the odor, however, the potential condition technically known as staining is somewhat more complex; and therefore, totally satisfactory results may not always be achieved with a single procedure.
Dried urine always attacks dyes, though not necessarily visible in full spectrum, everyday light. Stains that are visible may require special techniques and the assistance of a qualified professional with spot-dyeing expertise. Following the process of bacterial/enzymes treatments, some staining may remain. Before hiring a dye specialist, there are a couple of additional steps you may consider.
Urine is composed of dissimilar elements, some of which do not decay. For example, the traces of hard minerals locked in with the urine are non-organic and do not decay; as a consequence our bacterial/enzymes do not feed upon them. Medications and biologically modified color additives in pet food are found in urine, as well. Notwithstanding dyes taken into the fibers, most of the residual inorganic elements will clean out later, once these organic components are digested by our product. As a rule, unless the stickiness of urine affected areas have attracted common soiling, the residual elements are not normally discernible once the microbes have completed the task of eliminating that, which decays. When necessary, to remove what may remain of non-organic residue and other soiling, a vigorous cleaning with hot water extraction equipment is the method we recommend.
Another condition occurs when untreated urine affects the resin coating of "stain-resist" carpeting. This happens as dried urine becomes increasingly alkaline, reversing the polarity of the ionic charge that binds the resin to the fiber. When so loosened, stain-resist resins deposited topically on the fibers appear as a yellowish/beige color to blemish the face yarn. The good news is that this condition can be reversed!
Resin-based stain can be corrected with an application of a citric acid solution once decay has been enzymatically removed. The acidic environment induces an anionic charge, thus resetting the resin into the fibers. Voila! The color disappears! This fabric-safe technique also works well on wool carpeting that is not necessarily stain-resist treated. This simple procedure frequently works wonders!
The presence of urochrome complicates staining. A natural yellow dye, urochrome is found in all urine in varying degrees. More often than not, the dye taken into the fibers is slight and cannot be detected among the native dyes of your fabric: white fabric tends to show it more; and other variables include the relative dye-ability of the fibers. Urochrome staining worsens with recurring urination in the same area, as the quantity of the dye increases with each subsequent episode of contamination. In such cases of extreme discoloration, the unwanted color will have to be stripped out first for satisfactory spot-dyeing results.
Color and shade considered, lighter urochrome stains can sometimes be blended to match native dyes without stripping, particularly when the urine has caused some bleaching of the fabric. A Light application of colorfast blue may well do the trick since this is usually the primary color that urine strips out first.
Whenever yellowing remains in yarn it should be treated with a solution of citric acid before attempting any other stain removal techniques. Application should follow completed enzymatic digestion of the contaminants. Both of these procedures can be performed with minor instruction, however: working with bleaches and dyes to blend or match colors should be reserved to those qualified to do so.
With this caveat, most soiling that is associated with urine in fabrics commonly, but erroneously, referred to as a "stain," will be removed along with the odors with proper use of MisterMax Bacterial/enzyme cleaning products, All factors considered, totally satisfactory results are the rule and are achieved regularly without the need for additional procedures whatsoever.
